Thursday, March 1, 2012

Weddings, Hikes, and Lots of Work in the Field

 
Jambo,

It has been quite a week since the last time I was able to write.  Things got crazy busy here and I have been working on assignments every open second of the day!  If we are not in the field or not sleeping, I have been working on papers and scientific posters and worksheets!  Tonight is the first night that I have been able to relax without anything else due in the near future!

Other than just the assignments that we have had going on lately, we have had some great experiences, not only with the field exercises and lectures, but once again interacting with the locals and getting to go on amazing hikes and explore new towns.  In the past week, we have had several field exercises where we get to go out into the community and the field and do random experiments and other data collection.  The first exercise that we did like this was to estimate the amount of damage that elephants and humans have on woody vegetation.  We literally got dropped into the middle of nowhere and had to stake out plots in a total of a kilometer!  We worked together, recording the damage that we saw, what the damage was from, and what species it occurred on.  It was so cool to be in the middle of nowhere, and there were tons of wild animals right by us, including zebras and gazelles and even a few giraffes.  Everyone here knows how much I love giraffes and they are always sure to point them out to me.  Another exercise that we did was to examine the vegetation and the amount of cover that it could provide for animals and to prevent soil erosion.  We had three different techniques to do so, and being in groups once again, we traveled 2 kilometers, measuring random plots along the way.  For all of these exercises, we have local guides from Kimana that assist us in the data collection.  They are amazing at the amount of knowledge they have. You can point to any plant or animal and they can tell you the common name, the scientific name, and the Maasai name.  It’s so great to be able to talk to them about where they went to school and why they chose to come to Kimana for whatever career they have.  The final field exercise that we completed was for Environmental Policy.  We once again got to venture out in the middle of nowhere and conduct interviews with the farmers in that area.  I love talking to people and I really can’t think of a better way to really understand the human-wildlife conflict in the area.  All of the farmers were so happy to talk to us and we learned so much about their conflict issues, what they do to prevent damage from wildlife, and their opinions of the government organization that controls the wildlife.  We interviewed 9 different farmers, and it’s so crazy because a farm literally next door to another farm can have completely different answers.  At one farm, the farmer said he had no wildlife conflict at all, whereas his next door neighbor had daily interaction with wildlife and had damage to crops from the wildlife.  It’s amazing how much the answers can vary in such a small area.

Unfortunately, I finally got sick here for the first time in the last week.  Everyone here caught a really bad cold, but when mine started to hit my lungs, I figured it was time to get it checked out.  I returned to the clinic where we gave blood earlier this semester, where I saw some amazing doctors and was given some medicine to improve how I was feeling.  Going to the clinic took FOREVER though!  We left camp at 8 am and did not return until 3 in the afternoon.  It is a free clinic to all people, so a lot of the locals take advantage of this amazing resource.  I got to meet a lot of unique individuals there, including a woman that had lived in California for three years and wanted to talk to us about it!  It was a very long day of sitting in the sun, but it was good to get piece of mind.

Another night, we had the option of attending a goat roast at the fire pit in the main part of our camp. Goat roasts are extremely popular with the staff, and they decided it would be valuable for the students to experience also.  A goat was purchased in the market, and we were able to watch it be killed.  We watched in the woods, and it was so much more gruesome than what I expected.  I couldn’t even watch the entire thing.  After the goat was dead, we were able to go through and see how it worked!  We skinned it and looked at its stomach because it has a similar digestive system to the other ungulates in this area.  It was really disgusting, but also fascinating to see in person and get my hands on.  So much better than reading about it in a textbook.   Then the staff put the goat on sticks and roasted it over the fire pit.  It was amazing! The Maasai employees of our camp would cut pieces off and hand them to students.  I felt like a baby bird.  It was so good though and nice to see where our food was coming from for once.  The whole roast was a great experience, but there were definitely parts I could have gone without seeing!

The best part of the last week was our day off on Saturday.  We packed our lunches in the morning, loaded up the cars, and started driving to a town about 30 minutes away to visit their market.  Before that though, we had the opportunity to go on an amazing hike.  We literally drove 30 minutes from the desert like climate of Kilimanjaro Bush Camp, and as we approached Mt. Kilimanjaro, the climate and vegetation made a 100% switch compared to what we were used to.  There were huge green trees, long green grass, bushes without thorns, flourishing agriculture, and moisture in the air.  It literally felt like I was in a completely different country, and I couldn’t believe we were so close to our camp.   
When we started the hike, we were at the top of a hill and started to climb down it toward a corn field with an AMAZING view of Kili.  I had no idea where we were headed, but I was so happy to be surrounded by so much green stuff!  We started to climb down a steeper trail, descending into something that looked like a gorge.  It was very dense and we could not see where we were going at all.  At the bottom, though, we popped out right by a huge waterfall and a giant river curving down through a canyon.  It was so unexpected and that made it that much more gorgeous than it already was.  It reminded me of the paradise that Timon and Pumba lived in during the Lion King!  There were huge boulders and lots of places for us to explore.  My friends here are my kind of people because we immediately started following the river, jumping over narrow parts, rock climbing up steep edges, and jumping from rock to rock until we couldn’t go any farther.  I felt like I was 5 years old again going hiking with my parents and sister up in the mountains, jumping over streams and climbing rocks when they weren’t looking.  It was so pretty and a perfect temperature.  I couldn’t believe how gorgeous it was and how happy I was to just sit there and look around.  We had lunch at the base of the waterfall, and then had to pack up and head back into town to meet the other group of students.

When we got to town, we went to the VCT, a local aids testing center, clinic, and counseling service for HIV positive members of the community.  We all gathered in a room with one of the nurses that worked there and 4 women that were all HIV positive.  The clinic is very small and only made up of 3 small buildings.  They have recently lost their funding and their resources for the local community have decreased immensely.  It was sad to hear about everything they had to cut out because of the lack of money.  However, the one thing that has been sustained is the support group, which meets once a week to allow these men and women to talk to others in the same situation.  The four women that we met were some of the most amazing people I have ever met.  They were so calm about the entire thing.  They each went down the line and told us their story, like when they found out they had AIDS, who else in their family has been affected by it, and how they carry on with their daily lives despite how terrible it can be.  These women were SO strong.  I always picture people with terrible diseases like this one to be feeling sorry for themselves, complaining about how hard everything is, and how they don’t know how to cope.  But not these women.  They have all continued to work and support their families, taking every day as it comes and dealing with it if necessary.  Some of the women even had children that were infected, and to hear them talk about their kids and how it has changed their lives was incredible to hear.  I have never been so shocked by the strength of the women and how they didn’t let AIDS kick them to the ground.  Sometimes, I feel like we think our miniscule problems are the end of the world.  Then I see women like this and it makes me want to hold my tongue.  After we heard all of their stories, they showed us around the other buildings and invited us to their beading shop.  All of the women make jewelry and bowls and wood carvings and more to help provide a source of income for their families.  We all bought tons of stuff and hopefully helped these women and their families a little bit.

When we finished at the AIDS clinic, we had a short amount of time to head into downtown Loitoktok to their Saturday market.  There were a lot of the same items, but some new bags and other things that were really colorful and will make great gifts.  I was shocked when I saw all the same Maasai mamas at this market!  Apparently they travel to all the local markets to make the most money.  The best part of this market was a local grocery store where they had ice cream and cold drinks!  It’s the first cold things we have had since we got here, and you can imagine how quickly we devoured the ice cream.  It was great and a nice change from the Kimana market.

As if all of these things weren’t enough, we had one more amazing experience to wrap up the best day off ever!  We got invited to a Maasai wedding in our neighbor’s boma!  We got to get all dressed up in skirts and jewelry we have purchased and arrived at the boma to join in the festivities.  The weddings in Maasai culture could not be more different than the United States.  There is no official ceremony, but the day instead revolves around the bride and groom entering the boma together as one, dancing of all age groups, and some sort of meat slaughter.  When we got there, tons of traditional dancing was going on, and the bride and groom were outside of the fence getting pictures taken.  They invited us to dance with all of them, and for the first time, I felt like the Maasai enjoyed our presence and were happy that we were there and interacting in their culture.  It was so fun and we danced for a long period of time with the mamas and the warriors.  We also gave a gift to the bride and groom, so our student affairs manager presented it to them and they both thanked all of us one by one.  It was so cool to be a part of such a significant celebration in this culture and I was thankful that they invited us willingly as neighbors.  The best part of the whole wedding happened at the end.  We were all loading up the cars and I told my friend that I really wanted a picture with one of the warriors.  We got one of their attentions and he came over and posed with me.  But right as we were about to take the picture, a few other warriors saw what was happening and ran over to be in the picture.  The best part? One of these warriors was the groom!!!  All of my classmates were piled in the cars, and there I was with a group of Maasai warriors!  It was seriously the funniest experience ever and I couldn’t believe my luck.  Everyone loves the warriors, so I was so lucky to get this picture, especially with the groom.  I will never forget that picture and the warriors coming running to be in it with me.

Tomorrow we are leaving at 5 am to travel to Lake Nakuru for our expedition!  We are camping right in the middle of the national park in tents!!! I am so excited to be right in the middle of the wildlife and to have an amazing camping experience.  The drive takes around 10 hours, but luckily we make stops at curio shops and grocery stores to break up the drive.  We even get to drive through Nairobi, which will be great to finally see the downtown area!  Expedition and all the activities that we get to embark on have the potential to be the greatest experience of the entire semester.  I am so excited and counting down until we get there!  I will write again in a week after our return to KBC!!!

I hope everyone has had an amazing week and I look forward to hearing from you soon.  My e-mail is mam5810@psu.edu if you ever want to get in contact with me!

Thanks again for reading and wish me luck on expedition!

Love,
Mollie Ann





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